Kalymnos 2016 – Prometheus

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During September 2016 I returned to Kalymnos with Gordon Jenkin and added another multi pitch climb to the huge South face of Tolendos. Prometheus is an 8 pitch, 200m long route equipped with titanium resin bolts and abseil stations, accessed by a 30 minute walking approach from Tolendos village.

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The all important epoxy resin! 6 Foil packs of Hilti RE500 brought from Hong Kong.

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It’s heavy! 28kg of rope, a drill and other gear required for fixing rope down the line.

Day 1, and a 2 hour uphill approach from sector Irox to the summit plateau then back down to the cliff edge of the South Face. The top of the line was located promptly and within 3 hours I was back on the ground with the entire 200m line rigged with fixed rope.

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Looking up at the South Face having rigged the line in 3 hours.

Gordon joined me the following day and together, a further 4 days resulted in the line fully bolted, ready for the first ascent. In total we placed 145 titanium resin bolts and added 10 abseil stations for an optional abseil descent.

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Gordon high on pitch 2.

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High on the ‘The Goat Hotel Terrace’

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Last day of glueing in bolts

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One of the titanium abseil stations installed on Prometheus. The rings, rated to 50kN, are cut from solid titanium bar and the bolts fixed with Hilti RE500 epoxy resulting in a fixed protection system that will last well beyond a 50 year design life. The right hand bolt was glued the previous day and already the bright red colour of the epoxy resin is fading to a more natural background colour.

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Climb time! Leading the first (crux) pitch with Tom Rogers on belay and Gordon on camera

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Looking up at the ‘thunderbolt’ pitch

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Please continue to support Kalymnos and their community as it gives us much in return.

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One thought on “Kalymnos 2016 – Prometheus

  1. Had an awesome day on Prometheus yesterday. Really liked pitched 1,3,4, and 6. Folks looking to link pitches may want to consider 4/5 and maybe 6/7. Thanks Francis!!

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